Christmas in the Basque Region of Spain

When we came to Spain over 36 years ago, our family was surprised by the Christmas customs. They weren’t at all what we were used to! For one thing, there were hardly any lights, trees, or decorations. This has changed a little over the years, but it’s still true.

We first lived in high-rise apartment buildings. On Christmas Eve, as I was cooking, children started arriving at our door. “May we sing?” they asked. Of course, we said yes, and they began to sing a carol we’d never heard before, in the Basque language, Euskera. The children were dressed in traditional Basque country costumes and one of them played a flute. The others sang somewhat off-key. Then, they thrust their hands out for money. Thankfully, we’d been advised to stock up on five peseta pieces. Many groups came to the door and sang for money.

We later moved to a small town in the country, and the children sang for oranges and raw eggs. They carried woven baskets for hauling off their eggs and oranges. We gave them candy bars instead, and they were pleased.

There are a lot of manger scenes on display in store windows, on the counter in a business, or in people’s homes. Some are large, like a whole Basque village—with the stable and Mary and Joseph and Baby Jesus in the middle. We enjoy them. After all, Jesus’ coming as a Baby is the whole reason we celebrate Christmas!

The Basques have their own version of “Santa Claus.” His name is Olentzero. Legend has it that he was a carbon maker and would visit towns and give gifts to the children. In the village where we live, “Olentzero” comes down the hill on Christmas Eve, with torch-carriers and people dressed in traditional Basque costumes. He leads a donkey that's laden with large baskets of gifts.

Christmas Eve is when most people in Spain have a huge, elegant dinner with their extended family. It is usually many hours long and is always served in courses. The finest stemware and dishes grace the table, and it’s a festive time. Since most homes are small, they might put up tables in the kitchen, living room, and even bedrooms to accommodate all of the family. These dinners start around ten o’clock in the evening and last well past midnight. Dessert consists of an assortment of turrones, which are candies similar to fudge. They come in a variety of flavors, mostly chocolate, nuts, and fruits.

Christmas Day is usually a sleep-in day, and many people visit family for dinner in the middle of the day or early afternoon.

People give and receive presents on January 6th, which is the “Day of the Kings” (Wise Men). In every city, there’s a parade on the night of January 5th. We were surprised how close the parade was to the Bible. First, a young person carries a pole with a big star on it. Then come some young people in Eastern-style dress with torches in their hands. Some are shepherds. In one parade we attended, a whole herd of sheep passed through the streets, and children wearing Basque costumes carried rabbits, baby goats, and lambs. Then, there’s a float with the stable and Mary, Joseph, and the Baby Jesus. After that, people in Eastern dress toss hard candy to the children along the route. Near the end of the parade, you’ll hear the crowd chant, “They’re coming!” Soon, the three Wise Men pass by on horseback, dressed in beautiful shining robes and waving to the people. Spanish tradition says that the Wise Men give gifts to good little children.

The children leave their shoes out on their balconies for the Wise Men to fill with gifts. Some leave straw for the camels or horses. On January 6th, everyone opens their presents.

The Spanish-Basque Christmas is Christ centered, but the people are largely unaware of the Lord Jesus except for their traditions. Most people here very seldom go to church (weddings, funerals, baptisms, First Communions). Many of them don't know the biblical account of Christmas.

Our job is to tell people about Jesus—that He came as a Baby, grew up, and was crucified, bearing the sins of each person. The people in the Basque region need to know that Jesus rose from the grave, and there is hope in Him. They need to know that Jesus saves and gives peace and joy.

The real wise men brought gifts to the Christ Child: gold, frankincense, and myrrh. These gifts spoke of the gospel: that Jesus is God, that He came to earth to die on the cross for sins, and that He would rise again, so that people who trust in Him can have eternal life. Jesus would become Prophet, Priest, and King.

Have you ever known anyone who doesn't know the Christmas story? Many people in the world need to know about Jesus. Who will tell them?

Jesus said to the Apostol Paul, I send thee, To open their eyes, and to turn them from darkness to light, and from the power of Satan unto God, that they may receive forgiveness of sins, and inheritance among them which are sanctified by faith that is in me (Acts 26: 17b-18).

May this be our vision—that God would use us to help people turn from darkness to light.